Historically, in my country house all the lighting was done using LED lamps with a power of 10-11, and more recently, 12-13 watts with an E27 base. An incandescent lamp on an area of 200 m2 would spend too much electricity, which would not fit into the concept of my energy-efficient home with decent insulation, a solid fuel wood boiler, an uninterrupted battery on car batteries and a heat recovery unit. I disliked luminescent "energy savers" at first sight - they often burn out, do not have the same energy efficiency as LED, brittle, toxic when accidentally broken, flicker and have an unpleasant spectrum.
? , 120 , , . — , Camelion, , Bellight, , Wolta .… — 13 Norma 100 .
, , 11 12 .
25000 ? -. 3 ? , , .
3 , 27 2.5 ? --. 3 2.5 , , , .
, - , , , . ?
. , , , ( , ) .
, - , - , , , . , .
, —
, , . , , ( Wolta , -). .
, , .. , .. , , .
, , , , / .
— 2-4 . , , .. .
— .
, , . — , — , , , — , - , .
.
, , , — , .. , .
, .
? , . , 18 9 ( 162 ), 17 , 9, 9.53 , , , , .
Nevertheless, if you are not an expert in soldering and electronics and can not easily find or remove the LED to replace a burned out one from the donor lamp, then this method of repairing the bulb can be considered advisable, because the alternative is usually to throw this lamp out. I don’t think it makes much sense to bring it under warranty, as the time spent on this is unlikely to pay off the cost of the lamp.
Video with an example of repairing a Camelion LED bulb: